Large Parrots to Loving Homes

Parrot Care

Diet      Cages    Healthcare     signs of Illness  Behavioral Problems    Emergency Care    Links

This page is not intended to be the ultimate guide to parrot care.  Rather, it is a starting point for people who are considering their first bird and the responsibilities that decision entails.  Large portions of this page were originally published by Robert L. Linville, DVM, All Creatures Veterinary Hospital, Vallejo, California.  Please send your comments and suggestions for improvement to parrotsforsale@hotmail.com.  Thanks.

Diet           

Most parrots are fed a diet of pellets, fresh fruit and vegetables, and seed mix.  The amount of each varies according to species.  Some people share food they cook for their families with their birds.  Still others cook wonderful treats that birds love.  All of these diets can be successful if you understand the basics of good diet.  Parrots, as do humans, require a certain amount of protein and fat as well as levels of certain minerals for good health.  The amount of each depends on the species of bird.

This section describes general feeding recommendations for your pet bird. Ideally you should research the species you have chosen and learn about their specific needs. Each species has its own unique dietary and environmental needs. By knowing their habits in the wild, where they live and what they eat in their native habitat, you can better understand how to be more successful in keeping them healthy and happy in your home. You can obtain information by talking with successful reputable breeders and owners, and by reading books dealing with your type of bird.

Balanced diets are only achieved by offering a variety of foods. Remember that a bird's diet in the wild is whatever is available. Earthworms in the spring, berries in summer, buds of flowering trees in fall.

PELLETED FOODS    There are a variety of pelleted foods now available for pet birds. As our knowledge of proper pet bird nutrition improves these diets become more nutritionally sound. Some companies have diets designed for the various species of pet birds. Use the one that is designed for the species you have. Often they are marketed as complete diets, however as with seed mixes, they should be considered only part of a complete diet. Dog food, cat food, monkey chow, and other pet foods ARE NOT the same as pelleted pet bird food and are not an appropriate part of your pet bird's diet.

SEEDS   Historically the basic diet for many pet birds has been a variety of seeds. Some mixtures have been accepted as the more essential seeds and are sold commercially as finch, canary, parakeet, and parrot seed. This does not mean it is a natural food supply--only that if all of the different seeds in the mixture are eaten, it will sustain life.  There is significant evidence that seed-only diets are harmful to your parrot.  Seeds contain fat.  Research and make sure that you do not exceed the recommended daily allowance of fat for your type of parrot or you may substantially shorten the life of your pet.

a. BASIC- Mixtures of seeds packaged commercially. Bulk bird seed from a pet shop is likely to be much fresher and more nutritious than boxed seed sold in the supermarket. Be careful that your bird is not selecting only one or two types of seed out of a mixture of six to ten varieties. This will produce an unbalanced diet and nutritional deficiencies.

Be aware the current trend is away from using seed mixtures as the major component in most species diets. This is based on the observation that many pet birds do not eat the entire mixture, but instead pick out only a few varieties in the seed mix. Often the seeds they selectively eat are ones with high oil content which can be unhealthy for the bird in the long term. Amazon parrots tend toward obesity which is magnified by eating nuts or oil containing seeds such as sunflower or safflower. Macaws actually require a little fat in their diet so a limited amount of nuts or oil containing seeds is an acceptable part of their diet.

FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

Greens are a valuable and rewarding addition to your bird's diet. The common table greens may be used, or in the summer, backyard greens are available. Greens have the reputation of causing diarrhea, which is not true, but they will affect the character of the stool. Greens are bulky foods that pass through the digestive tract rapidly, causing a soft green stool. Greens are high in water, adding fluid to the body. More urine is produced which adds to the fluidity of the droppings. Birds at first may overeat greens, but if fed consistently, will only eat a small amount. Sprouted bird seed is a special treat. When feeding any type of fresh food, make sure to thoroughly wash the food before giving it to the bird. This removes any soil bacteria or contaminants, which could be harmful to your bird.

It is important that all varieties of bird receive from 15-25 percent of their diets in the form of vegetables, fruits, and "treats." The smaller seedeaters (finches, canaries, etc.) should be given the lesser amount. The Conures, Amazons, and Cockatoos, somewhere in between, and the fruit-eaters (Lories, Toucans, and many Macaws) the greater amount.

Vegetables are a great source of protein and carbohydrate, which tend to offset the higher fat content of some of the "favorite" seeds of many birds, such as sunflower and safflower seeds. Try a wide variety of vegetables like green and other beans, fresh or cooked corn, peas, broccoli, peppers, squash, cauliflower, potato, carrots, cooked spinach, beets, yams, sweet potatoes, etc. Avoid iceberg lettuce, particularly in young birds. It has little or no nutritive value. Also some vegetables such as tomatoes tend to be acidic and should be avoided.

Fruits are an excellent source of carbohydrate and a moderate source of protein. They supply the bird with a readily digestible energy source, and are a valuable source of many vitamins and minerals. Fruits such as berries, grapes, papaya, and, sometimes, citrus fruits and apples tend to give birds what we call "functional" diarrhea. These fruits and berries are said to have a "cleansing" effect on their digestive tracts, but anything can be overdone. Offer these items once or twice weekly. Some fruits such as pineapple and most citrus fruits tend to be acidic, and also should only be fed in limited quantities.

Peaches, pears, and bananas have better nutritive value for birds and are less apt to cause diarrhea.

Yogurt, the all natural type with no additives, is an excellent source of protein and calcium.

Treats can be an excellent source of nutrition for birds. In addition, the pleasure of both bird and owner can be greatly enhanced. Do not hesitate to offer a variety of snacks, including cooked egg, toast or bread with peanut butter, graham crackers, rolls, low salt cheese, noodles, cookies, etc..

Four Types of Food to Avoid

1. Foods that contain large amounts of salt; such as saltines, potato chips, popcorn, etc.

2. Foods that contain large amounts of sugar; such as candies, syrup, etc..

3. Foods that contain large amounts of fat or oil; such as meat trimmings, avocado, etc..

4. Any food containing a stimulant or depressant; like caffeinated sodas, alcohol, etc.

You should exercise common sense in choosing your pet's food. As a general practice do not feed parts of food items that are not commonly eaten by people. For example do not feed the pits of fruit such as peaches, plums, or cherries as these contain cyanide and therefore are toxic. Another example is the tops of carrots, these contain very large amounts of nitrates which also is toxic if enough of them are consumed. Also, when feeding fresh foods do not leave them in the cage so long that they spoil or grow large numbers of bacteria. If you think about whether the food would be safe for you to eat after being left out for a period of time and apply that same reasoning to your pet bird's food, you usually will be safe. Do not put a food that will spoil in the cage and leave it there all day long, your bird will get sick just like you would if you left dinner on the table all night and ate the food off the plate for lunch the next day.

SOFT FOOD DIET

There are many soft, cooked parrot and small bird foods available in pet stores and on the internet.  Birds love cooked pasta and you can spice it up with many different beans and seeds.  See the end of this section for links to some great recipes.

HANDLING FINICKY EATERS

Birds are inherently finicky. If they get "hooked" on sunflower seeds, and will not touch anything else, it can in time result in a number of vitamin and mineral deficiencies as well as fatty degeneration of the liver, thyroid problems, fatty tumors and other complications.

We believe in offering birds fresh food twice daily, in an amount that they will consume in about six hours. Feeding in this manner makes sure that the bird will be hungry when fed, and may be willing to try something new when offered. Always have the favorite food available at feeding time, however. One can sprinkle the favorite seed over a variety of vegetables (succotash) or fruit such (unsweetened fruit cocktail) as a good way to start. Alternate this type of mixture with the regular feed choice daily. Determine the bird's preferences of vegetables or fruits, and use your own good judgment. Don't be afraid to try leftovers or table scraps-- including even bits of lean meat-- but do not leave it in the feed dish long enough to spoil.

Do not give up too soon!! It often takes weeks or sometimes even months for the bird to try something new.

Although a balanced diet provides a bird all the nutrients and vitamins they require, you can add a balanced vitamin-mineral, and amino-acid supplement over the vegetable, fruit or seed to enhance nutrition.

Minerals are an essential part of the daily diet. The best sources are: Cuttlebone, Mineral Blocks, Milk, Oyster Shells, Egg Shells, or a supplement specific for birds.

African Grey parrots have a higher requirement for Calcium in their diet which must be present in either the pelleted food, high calcium vegetables, or supplements.

Budgerigars ("parakeets") require Iodine supplementation to their diet to prevent thyroid dysplasia. One drop of Iodine solution weekly in the drinking water will satisfy this requirement.

LIQUIDS   Besides fresh water, other liquids may be offered. Some birds have a real fondness for nectars. Many birds like orange juice which may be offered in limited amounts. Milk is a very excellent food and can be added to drinking water. Remember, it must be changed the same day.

GRIT   We recommend a firm no-grit policy (exception is passerine birds such as finches and canaries).

HOW TO BROADEN A BIRDS DIET   Many birds have developed poor eating habits, and as a result have or are bordering on malnutrition. It may be difficult to overcome these bad habits, but persistence usually pays off. Do not try to starve your bird into eating new food. A small bird will die in 48 hours if it does not eat.

1. Begin with sweetening the water, and then after he has developed a "sweet tooth" add other nutrients such as juices, milk, and honey.

2. Introduce only small amounts of new food.

3. Try feeding hot foods. Try hot nuts, hot cereals, hot cheese and hot soup.

4. Mix new foods with the regular basic seed.

5. Place new foods below a mirror or adjacent to a favorite toy.

6. Try feeding outside the cage.

7. Change bird from ad-lib feeding to three 15-minute feeding periods.

Be aware that variety in food in addition to being more nutritionally sound, also helps as it is a major source of mental stimulation for pet birds.

 Recipes:      Land of Vos      Parrothouse      Parrot Parrot     

Size  Cages for small birds should be as long as or longer than they are tall. Birds tend to fly lengthwise, not up and down, and we can make them feel more comfortable with a long cage. Tall cages are fine for canaries, but certainly do not meet the needs of budgerigars ("parakeets"), cockatiels, or other small birds.  Parrots on the other hand are typically kept clipped for safety reasons.  Parrot cages should be as large as possible given the space allowed.

Perches   Perches in cages are best made of natural material. The ideal perch would be a branch from a citrus or fruit tree, oak, manzanita, or eucalyptus tree with the bark still intact. They are easily replaced, and are excellent nutrition and excellent exercise. Never use sandpaper covered perches as this will irritate the feet. Try to have perches of several different diameters to avoid pressure sores from continual pressure in one part of the foot.

Litter   The bottom of the cage should be covered with newspaper or an appropriate litter material designed for birds. This makes an excellent bottom cover, as it does not spread moisture all over the cage from a single accident or dropping. Furthermore, the paper can be lifted out daily, allowing one to estimate the number of droppings per day and thus monitor the bird's appetite. Do not use sandpaper on the cage floor.

Gravel (Grit)  No gravel or mineral grit should be used in any cage used by a pet parrot.  We've heard of two cases of death this year due to the parrot eating grit.  Canaries, doves, and finches may have grit if desired mixed in food at the rate of one teaspoon per pound.

Cuttlebone  Cuttlebone should be placed in all cages with the soft side in. This means the flaky side out where the bird can get to it and the hard shell near the outside of the cage. The cuttlebone should be placed at head height, within easy reach for the bird.

Cage Type  Wrought iron, powder paint cages are available in various sizes and configurations.  Find one that meets your bird's requirements. Be careful to avoid old painted cages or imported cages that may contain lead based paint since this is toxic to your bird. Galvanized cages may also contain lead as do many soldered cages.

Seed and Water Cups   One large cup is needed for water. Usually one large cup and at least 2  other small (treat) cups are needed for food. Wash the water and fresh food containers frequently.

Toys   These depend on the type of bird. For some birds they are very important and may help prevent feather picking. Do not use small weighted toys for large birds. Avoid toys that are potentially hazardous. Toes or beaks may become caught in small holes such as those present on jingle bells.

Cage Covers   Covers have two purposes:  They darken the cage in order for the bird to rest and they help to keep the cage warm if the temperature drops at night.

Bird Baths   Some birds enjoy bathing in a dish or bird bath or taking showers with their owners. Others will need to be spray-misted 2-3 times a week. Moisture is an absolute requirement for feather care.

Avoid Clutter   Cages that are too large or have too many toys and other objects in them may be every bit as stressful as a small barren cage. Try to attain a balance that the bird enjoys.

Cleanliness   Maintaining a clean environment in the cage is essential. When you set up the cage make sure to keep this in mind, and make sure the cage is acceptable to you. After all you are the one who will be cleaning it every day.

Environment  Consideration must be given to the cage, the surroundings and all activities in that area. Many birds in this areas do well if kept outdoors as on a screened porch. The change to this type of environment must be made slowly. Remember to cover the cage if the temperature drops below 50 degrees.

Cage Accessories  A bored parrot is an unhealthy parrot.  These are intelligent animals and require mental stimulation to thrive.  Consider the following additions to your pets environment

Location of Cage   Except for the first week, when introducing your bird to a new environment, birds generally are the happiest and do their best in areas of activity. Place the cage on the porch or in the family or living room. Direct sunlight is stimulating and enjoyable to birds; care being taken not to overheat them on a summer day.

Temperature   Pet birds and parrots can handle temperatures between 50 and 90 degrees if they have time to adjust.  A healthy bird can tolerate a change of temperature of 10 to 15 degrees. Sick birds chill readily and need a room temperature of 80 - 90 degrees.

Humidity   An ideal humidity for a bird seems to be 40 - 60 %.

Drafts   A healthy bird seems to tolerate drafts with no ill effects. Major temperature changes and continual drafts are not appreciated by your bird and should be avoided if possible. Sick birds are adversely affected by drafts or frequent changes in temperature.  Cover your birds at night.

Rest   Birds require up to 12 hours of sleep a day.  Cage covers assist in controlling these rest periods.

Dangers   Consider these seriously:

Healthcare & Grooming

Care of Beak    Beaks grow continuously and are worn off by their normal eating habits and the interaction of the beaks. A budgerigar ("parakeet") beak grows 3 inches per year. At times, beaks must be trimmed.  You can promote normal beak wear by adding a cuttlebone to the cage.

Care of Nails   It is important to keep the nails trimmed short. Concrete perches are helpful in keeping nails trim.

Care of Feathers   When feathers molt annually, no special care is needed. Feathers that become dirty or oily have to be bathed. This happens from smoke, dust and greasy cooking. Ragged-looking birds are sick and are affected with some deeper problem. Within two weeks of the loss of any feather, new feathers should be replacing it. If baldness begins to occur, seek Veterinary assistance. Never use any ointment or other oily or greasy medication on your bird's feathers. This will cause it to be unable to regulate temperature properly.

Care of Feet   Foot infections occur in spite of many precautions. Be certain to keep perches clean, have at least one soft perch, vary the size of the perches, and if you notice any weight shifting, sores, or lameness - immediately seek Veterinary assistance.

Care of Legs   A leg band's purpose is for identification. They can sometimes irritate a bird's leg.  Large birds can now be permanently identified using microchips without risking damage to the legs. Scales on a bird's legs and feet may thicken and form a hard - tight crust. These can be removed by applying a skin moisturizer and then working the scales off with the fingers or lifting them off with a forceps. String or lint can wrap around the leg or toe of a bird and cut off circulation. If you see discoloration of the leg or toes or a depression around the bird's leg - seek Veterinary assistance.

Care of Skin  Since the skin is protected by feathers, no special care is needed. Most important though, is not to apply oil or grease to the skin. Any oil can cause heat retention and heat prostration.

Care of Eyes, Ears and Nose   A discharge from any of these areas indicates trouble. Slight crusting or wetness of the hair like feathers above the nasal opening is not normal. Until the bird can be seen by a Veterinarian, the area should be kept clean. Wipe the area with a mild antiseptic solution. Do not apply anything oily, nor give prescription medication before a diagnosis is made.

Care of the Uropygial, Ear and Anal Glands    These should be checked annually by your Veterinarian. If the bird is pecking excessively at the top of the tail near the body, the uropygial gland may have to be carefully examined. 

Signs of Illness

Alertness

Birds hide their problems very effectively, and when they begin to obviously manifest their illness, they are already seriously ill. The bird that dies "suddenly" has probably been sick for some time and was not recognized as being abnormal. Birds are actually very hardy and tolerate problems as well as any other animal. If given a chance, birds live a long time. Because of this difficulty in detecting illness early, the following is recommended:

A. Observe closely for any signs of illness.

B. Take your bird to the Veterinarian annually for a check up. This will include a physical examination, a 24 hour dropping analysis and a blood test (total protein, packed cell volume, and white blood cell count estimate).

C. Watch for any of these signs of sickness:

1. Change in the character of the droppings or a decrease in the number or volume.

2. Change in food or water consumption.

3. Change in attitude - generally observed as a decreased activity ( inactivity ), talking less ( or more poorly ), singing less, or no response to stimuli.

4. Change in bird's appearance or posture. A sick bird generally ruffles his feathers, begins closing his eyes in a sleepy fashion, and will be sitting low on the perch (droopy).

5. Any noticeable breathing while resting, heavy breathing after exertion, change in character of voice, and any respiratory sounds (sneeze, wheeze, or click).

6. Any enlargement -- even fat is abnormal in a bird.

 Weight

Once a bird has become an adult, the weight should never vary. Checking the weight occasionally, especially at the annual examination will give valuable information about your bird's health. Birds who eat excessive amounts of oil containing seed may become obese. Sick birds may lose weight. Learn to check your birds pectoral muscles frequently and be aware of any noticeable change in their size.

Droppings

Droppings are one of the best indicators of your bird's health and reflect the digestive and urinary systems. Observe and count the number of droppings daily. The droppings are an instant guide to the amount eaten by the bird. If your bird begins to eat less, the number of droppings will decrease indicating a medical problem and he should be seen by a Veterinarian.

Respiratory Problems

After nutrition related diseases, respiratory disease is the most common disease of birds. Birds have a unique respiratory system. There is no diaphragm and so the majority of air movement results from movement of the chest and abdominal walls. Remember this when holding your bird to give medication of any type. Excessive pressure on the chest and abdomen may produce respiratory arrest in the bird.

Signs of respiratory diseases may range from ruffled feathers, failure to talk, loss of appetite, to tail bobbing. Discharges from the cere or mouth, and sneezing, tail bobbing, or flicking the tail down indicates severe respiratory impairment.  Many birds display allergies in the same way as humans by sneezing or runny noses.  Be aware of recent changes in a bird's environment.  (New laundry detergent, fabric softeners, scented candles, incense)  If a mild condition persists after 24 hours, see your veterinarian.

 Behavioral Problems

 Feather Picking

Feather picking is a disease found primarily in stressed birds. The insecurity of captivity frightens many a bird. These animals are nervous and apprehensive. If left unrecognized, many begin to alter their preening habits. Feather picking results when they substitute chewing for preening.

In order to minimize this vice, design a place for the bird's concealment such as a nesting box or coffee can. Provide a companion, and use common sense in bird husbandry.

1. In short, reduce stress and have a healthier bird.
2. Do not overlook the possibility of psittacine beak and feather disease. This problem is common in Cockatoos and African Grey parrots and your bird should be examined, and possibly specifically tested for this problem if it has chronic feather problems.

Screaming

Birds are vocal animals. The bigger the bird, the louder the scream. The owner should realize that some screaming by your pet is just part of owning a pet bird. Excessive screaming can be due to many things. Often it is a call for attention. Do not go running when the bird screams. That merely reinforces the behavior since that is what the bird wants you to do. Eventually this will result in a persistent screamer. A more extreme situation is separation anxiety. This is a form of anxiety attack. These birds may not only scream, but engage in destructive behavior to either themselves or their environment. They need a comprehensive program of behavioral conditioning, and sometimes anti-anxiety medication. If your bird is traumatizing itself, feather picking, or destroying its environment as well as screaming, you should discuss the problem with your Veterinarian. Other causes of screaming include stress, fright, anger, playfulness, and excitement. Understanding the underlying cause of the screaming helps in identifying what if anything needs to change in order to reduce the screaming. You should also be aware of the species variation in vocalization. Some birds such as Nanday Conures or Moluccan Cockatoos are much more vocal than others.

Biting

One of the main forms of expression for a pet bird is using its beak. This does not mean that biting should be allowed. On the other hand, neither does it mean that every time a bird puts its beak on you they are going to bite. As you become more familiar with your bird and its habits, you will be able to understand its moods. Biting is something you should deal with. If your bird is aggressively biting, talk to your Veterinarian, breeder, or members of a bird club to learn how to deal with it.

Mentality and Emotions

Birds have a personality, definite likes and dislikes, feelings and a surprising amount of sensitivity and emotions. Birds are very social in the wild. We need to create a lot of stimulation for them in our homes. A variety of toys, placed in the cage a few at a time and rotated weekly, should be present. A variety of food should be made available. (However make sure pellets are available at all times.) Daily interaction between you and your pet bird should be the norm. You can use the cleaning and feeding time to your advantage. You will be there doing it anyhow, so you should make it a fun experience. Let the bird out while you are preparing the food. Give it some paper to shred, talk to it, or do whatever it enjoys. Certainly the more time you spend with them the better they feel, and the more enjoyable pet they become for you. Some species, such as finches and canaries prefer to be kept in groups in larger cages where they may fly around and interact with other birds. These species do not require as much stimulation or other interaction with their human caretaker as the larger species.

 Stress

Birds experience stress anytime their environment changes.  Be sure to provide a calm and constant environment for your bird at all times.

Emergency Care - Temporary care until a bird can be seen by a Vet

If the bird ever sits with its feathers ruffled, eyes partially closed, droopy appearance, or if there are signs of diarrhea or respiratory problems, the bird should be treated immediately. Any bird which has been injured, sustained a broken leg or wing, been bitten by a cat, dog or other animal, or been burned or chilled should likewise be started on emergency care.

Every part of the following is important:

INCUBATOR    A temporary incubator can be made by placing a heating pad or a "clamp light" on the side of the cage and then the entire cage is wrapped with plastic and a cage cover. The temperature should be maintained at 80 - 85 degrees.

Should the cage temperature become too hot, the bird will start breathing rapidly, hold his wings out from the sides of his body, and the feathers will be held so close or tight to the body that he will appear skinny.

FOOD    A bird that stops eating dies. Therefore, every effort must be made to encourage the bird to eat. Cups of food are placed adjacent to where the bird is perched, food is scattered on the bottom of the cage if the bird is off his perch. The Veterinarian will immediately force feed a bird by passing a stomach tube.

REST    Sick birds need rest, and thus, should be in a darkened room or covered to insure 12 - 16 hours of sleep. A two-hour nap in the morning or afternoon is advisable.

DROPPINGS    Start counting droppings. The number or volume of droppings will be of great concern to the Veterinarian. Better yet, save the droppings for the Veterinarian to view.

DON'T

1. Don't give alcohol containing drinks.

2. Don't use laxatives.

3. Don't use oil.

4. Don't stop food.

DO TELEPHONE YOUR VETERINARIAN

Links

Most of the information contained in this pamphlet was obtained from the following sources:

1. Robert L. Linville, D.V.M., All Creatures Veterinary Hospital, 509 Benicia Road, Vallejo, CA  94590

2. Notes from Gerald Snyder D.V.M.

3. The Cornell Veterinary notes

  CONTACT: Craig & Debra Johnson, Covington, LA

985/892-3527 or

E-Mail: parrotsforsale@hotmail.com

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